ONE DAY IN SOHO: A square mile rich in culture and community

The Photographer's Gallery by Luke Hayes

Bohemian writer Virgina Woolf said it best when she described London's Soho as a space "filled with fierce light" and "raw" voices. It's a description and sentiment that best depicts this jewel in the heart of London's crown, Though a minute area of only one square mile. Soho serves as a small but particular home to locals and visitors, all drawn to its seductive charms. Flanked by Oxford Street to the north, Regent Street to the west, Leicester Square to the east, and Piccadilly Circus to the south. Its narrow, seldom quiet streets are the frenetic beating heart of London.

Words by Leigh Maynard and Adam Chan. Portraits by Morgan Shaw

Soho's streets and secluded alleyways comprise Georgian houses, theatres, years-old drinking dens, and cafes whose basements hold the faint echo of 50's kids swinging to sax. In the centre, Soho Square offers a small piece of nature set against the Georgian townhouses and at its centre stands a replica of a Tudorbethan gardener's hut that had previously stood in the centre of the square in the 1870s and which (according to a doubtful local legend) housed a secret tunnel to Buckingham Palace.

The alignment of Regent Street in the 1800s served to separate the nobility and gentry from the area's poorer residents. Over the years, the tiny Georgian houses, jostling for space, were home to émigrés, foreign political exiles from Protestant Hugenots, Italians, Poles, Hungarians, Russians, Austrians, and Germans. Lodging in cheap rooms, they plotted the next revolution before it could be televised, as they ate in even more affordable dining establishments.

In the '70s and '80s, these homes were replaced by shops for the seditionaries and seekers of seduction. Today, there are only remnants of this less-than-savoury industry. Still, in every narrow street and alleyway, there are ghosts of Soho's past, establishments that once were a home from home to creatives like Oscar Wilde, Agatha Christie and Bing Crosby.

Modern Soho is where London's throng walks shoulder to shoulder in unity. From the LGBTQ+ community who regularly parade down Old Compton Street to theatre and coffee lovers or the Jazz- loving crowds from near and far who frequent Ronnie Scott's to hear trumpets toot and the ping of double bass strings. Whether techno and happy house in Club GAY, tunes of the Irish craic in the Toucan on Soho Square or Jazz in Ronnies and Trisha's on Greek Street, music of all genres is an essential Soho soundtrack.

Walk down Greek Street, and you'll easily miss the little black door that takes you downstairs to one of Soho's oldest and most dearly loved music spots. Trishas has been the home to jazz and blues beats for over 75 years. With its minute Formica bar serving drinks staples like rum and coke, it's not for those seeking gentrified surroundings, but rather a place once discovered that feels like home, and is, to many locals. This place is unique in that its tiny square footage, where conversing with the neighbours, whether old, young, trans and thesps, is a necessity and those who come as strangers leave as friends.

One regular, Florence Joelle, is a Friday fixture. You'll find her dressed like Elizabeth Taylor, small in stature, large in attitude. Her husky French vocals and retro style give a glimpse into the coffee shop basements of the past.

Florence Joelle by Morgan Shaw

Florence says, "I met Trisha in 2003; she hadn't had the bar long. These old Italian guys were still here until then; the bar had been open for around 70 years. Trisha's is one of the only proper speakeasy bars left. I kind of grew up in Soho, and my boyfriend frequented it at the time. Soho is so special because it's real, and it attracts like-minded people. Trishas is full of people from all walks of life. As for me, I've played music all my life. I've lived for it all my life. I grew up with a dad who liked Jazz, and I loved early rock and roll and rhythm and blues, so my music is rooted in all those things." Florence's songs tell stories about things that happen around me, some with political messages, yet they are always upbeat. Florence explains, "If everybody that sees my set leaves feeling happier, my job is done."

While Trisha's remains a part of Soho's fabric, blink, and you'll miss the many beloved venues that Soho-ites hold dear. The once-beloved Madame JoJo's, home to cabaret drag queens, closed its doors a few years ago. At the same time, artists' favourite Colony Rooms shut its doors only to re-emerge just across Regent Street in a small green basement, hardly bigger than its central piano. Here, you'll find locals huddled around the baby grand, singing and conversing, many years old friends of the Soho scene reminiscing about the original club. And, if they are outside of Colony, you'll find them at French House, Blue Posts and Bradley's across Oxford Street.

Soho offers a selection of cuisines from chip shops to Noble Rot and the small but delicious Paradise Soho, whose Sri Lankan small plates are a must, not just for their beautifully plated dishes but also for the delicious flavour combinations that mean it's essential to book in advance, but the wait is definitely worth it.

A few streets away, Yautcha, a Cantonese Dim Sum teahouse that sits on the corner of Berwick Street and Broadwick Streets, offers options like the Infinite Yum Cha Brunch, where diners can try unlimited rounds of steamed, fried and baked dim sum and Yuatcha, 's famously bouncy bao, before deciding on a signature main course and side dish, finished by the most delicious fluffy pancakes.

Images courtesy of Yuatcha

Over on Greek Street, Soho stalwart L'Escargot houses art exhibitions, recently for one of this area's most prominent characters, Soho George. You'll often find him standing on the streets in his dapper dress, regaling stories of Soho's past. He's long called Soho home, and, he says, this outfit isn't for show; he's just being himself. "I'm not a fashionista; I'm me. We are all individuals; we are all special. You don't need to worry about what other people think. I live in Coven Garden, so I am a Soho neighbour. I came here in 1957, and by 1960. I've been in the West End for 65 years. A Rock and roll guy called Vince Tailor first drew George to Soho.

"Once you discovered Soho, it was a different community to everywhere else." He says Soho has changed a lot from its more down-at-heel days. He feels he has lost his edge, sounding slightly dejected at seeing people outside Bar Italia on their laptops. "We used to talk to each other", he says. He talked me through his art collection and technique, and he proudly explained that he didn't go to art school. "An art teacher can't teach somebody how to paint. The Royal Academy of Art accepted me, untrained! In the 50s, if you came from the wrong side of the tracks like me, you could not get into art school. I originally was supposed to work in a factory, but I didn't want to because it's all about self-expression with me." That is evident mainly in George's dapper suit, which ensures that people stop him to chat wherever he goes.

Soho George by Morgan Shaw

Soho has long been a magnet for creative characters whose works linger in our memories long after their tenure. Columnist Jeffrey Bernard set the tone, arguably more famous for his drinking than his word count; Peter O Toole famously portrayed him in the play Geoffrey Bernard is Unwell. And whilst Bernard frequented many a soho boozer for fun, political minds like Karl Marx used pubs such as The Red Lion pub in Great Windmill Street to lecture expectant followers in his new world vision.

Amongst the old guard coffee shops like George's favourite, Bar Italia, stand new bright and flavoursome spots like L'ETO. While L’ETO has long been a favourite for its dazzling cake displays, the Soho branch is quietly redefining itself as a breakfast and brunch hotspot. Their updated menu puts real focus on savoury dishes, from truffle fries crisped in olive oil to beautifully balanced breakfast plates. Even their sweet offerings have evolved: the newly reworked carrot cake is lighter yet rich, while the chestnut honey cake delivers an authentic, tangy depth from real honey and studded walnuts. For something indulgent, the Snickers cake surprises with whole roasted peanuts woven through each slice, adding crunch and heartiness. Whether you’re stopping by for a leisurely brunch or a quick mid-morning treat, L’ETO Soho offers a vibrant new reason to visit — beyond its famous cakes.

Image courtesy of L'ETO Soho

But Soho is also home to theatres on the edge of Shaftesbury Avenue and the Curzon Cinema on the same street, which is also the perfect spot for art house films. Today, the Photographers' Gallery, a beloved venue for artists, moved from its original home in Leicester Square. It is now on Ramillies Street, home to a cafe, many contemporary photo exhibitions, and regular talks, workshops, courses and tours.

One current exhibition, "I am in Your Dreams, but You Are Not in Mine", is a collab brought to the Photographers Gallery by the collective Planetary Portals. The exhibition explores the convergence of AI and traditional photography, weaving together the environmental landscapes of 19th-century mining of gold and diamonds in South Africa with the scripting process of AI. The Planetary Portals project examines colonialism's legacy and the social and environmental impact of gold and diamond mining in South Africa. Planetary Portals said, " We develop the portal as a speculative archival method for examining geo-social inequities necessary for sustaining spatial imaginaries and dreams of Empire through these shadow architectures of vertical expansion in the emergence and maintenance of extractive planetary futures."

Image courtesy of the Photographer's Gallery

Another spot that blends dining and culture has been a favourite for the last couple of years. Tucked into the heart of Soho on Brewer street, Nessa offers more than just seasonally focused British dining—it’s fast becoming a cultural destination. Alongside Executive Chef Tom Cenci’s inventive dishes (don’t miss the aged beef tartare on charred sourdough, ideally followed by beef fat toast), Nessa now hosts the Salon of the Unruly, a weekly Thursday night celebration of modern British art and creativity, running until 19th June. From live Q&As with emerging artists to DJs spinning open-format British sounds, it’s a bohemian nod to Soho’s vibrant past with a thoroughly contemporary edge.

Image courtesy of Nessa

Guests can sip on signature cocktails like the Boho Negroni while sketching at their tables with in-house drawing kits—yes, really. And if you arrive early, Nessa’s £1 Oyster Hour (weekdays from 5–6pm) is a must—pair with a crisp martini for peak post-work indulgence. Open late with an equally stylish crowd, Nessa remains one of the area’s most compelling and creative spaces noy only for it's unique events but also for the gorgeous Deco interiors and the open facade that lends that al fresco dining experience when the sun shines.

One of our favourite loft venues is about to offer an event for those visiting Soho for a more relaxed experience. Maslow’s Weekend Wellbeing Series returns with Objects—a serene three-day programme from 23–25 May designed to reset the senses. Held in the Loft and Gallery at Mortimer House, the event blends art, sound, and stillness, featuring a meditative short film by Tianhao Xu and immersive Deep Listening sessions. Open to both members and the public, with complimentary drinks at Mortimer House Kitchen, it’s a thoughtful way to unwind in the heart of Soho.

Images Courtesy of Mortimer House

From echoes of the past to shaping the future, Soho is so rich in culture and people, and today, it remains one of our favourite places in London. The blend of communities and the unwavering commitment to creativity, it is a small but perfectly formed pocket of London with precisely the vision that Virginia described, that rawness and light, that unity in the uniqueness, that will forever keep us wandering through those narrow, enticing and oh-so-enriching streets.