TERUMASA NAKAJIMA

For Terumasa Nakajima, the visionary behind TELMA, fashion is a conversation between  garment and body. “I strive to create garments that are only truly complete when worn. The subtle shifts in movement and expression as the wearer moves are brought to life through the craftsmanship of skilled artisans,” he explains. Drawing inspiration from timeless beauty, the wisdom of local artisans, and inherited traditional techniques, TELMA creates garments that enrich everyday life, reflecting the dedication of all involved in their making.

Words by Emika Ohta Seger

Aoi at Bellona Model Agency photographed by Lowe H Seger. Styled by Emika Ohta Seger. Hair and Makeup by Taro Yoshida. Retouched by Katy Sims. Special thanks to Maki Kato and Makito Ohta. All credits by TELMA.

Nakajima graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2010, where his graduation collection received widespread acclaim, earning him both the Christine Mathys Award and the Louis Award — making him the first Japanese designer to receive both honours. That same year, he joined Dries Van Noten as an assistant for womenswear design, where he refined his ability to translate abstract concepts into wearable pieces. “Dries’ pursuit of new values each season while maintaining wearability was an invaluable experience that shaped my perspective on design,” Nakajima reflects.

After gaining a deep understanding of Western approaches to fashion in Antwerp and under Van Noten, Nakajima felt a growing desire to reconnect with his Japanese roots. Returning to Japan, he joined Issey Miyake, where he immersed himself in the philosophy of fabric development, focusing on how cloth interacts with the body. He came to understand that a fabric’s purest expression is revealed when draped in its natural state. “Each cut made to the fabric diminishes its inherent beauty,” he says. This concept echoes the kimono’s philosophy, in which a single bolt of cloth is used to create a garment, preserving the material’s essence. Through Miyake and a distinctly Japanese perspective of dress, Nakajima learned to minimise seams, allowing fabric and body to interact harmoniously. He was also inspired by Miyake’s ability to challenge conventions, transforming even the simplest materials into something extraordinary. “It was eye-opening to see how a shift in perspective could elevate an ordinary material,” he says.

Another pivotal moment in Nakajima’s career was his journey through Japan’s textile production regions. He travelled extensively — from the northern mountains to the southern coastal areas — visiting local production hubs and immersing himself in the rich heritage of Japanese craftsmanship. This experience, during which he collaborated closely with artisans to develop fabrics from the yarn up, left a lasting impression on his design philosophy. “Whether I’m requesting a softer fabric with added resilience or exploring more intricate challenges, I’m always moved by the artisans’ dedication and sensitivity,” Nakajima reflects. “Their ability to translate subtle nuances into fabric is extraordinary.” For him, material selection is never just about choosing textiles — it’s about understanding how those materials will interact with the body and enhance the wearer’s movement and expression.

TELMA’s Spring Summer 2025 collection subtly drew from the narrative of The Crane’s Return of a Favour, a beloved Japanese folktale. This story beautifully evokes Japan’s emotional sensibilities and landscapes, such as the shadowy silhouettes cast on shoji screens in snow-covered rural settings. “Since launching the brand, I’ve received incredible support from skilled artisans and many others who have helped bring my creative vision to life,” Nakajima explains. The collection’s debut runway show honoured this spirit of gratitude — “returning favours” to those who supported his journey. The collection highlights local craftsmanship and conveys a sense of Japan’s serene landscapes while also featuring TELMA’s signature floral motifs. “Flowers are like water flowing through a season. They change over time, revealing different colours, scents, and expressions before withering away. They symbolise beauty and, ultimately, the essence of life itself,” he says.