ARNAUD CHASTAINGT

Mademoiselle Chanel was a designer who liked to challenge preconceived notions while striving for, and reaching, pure excellence in every aspect of her work. No doubt she would be pleased with the choices the house has subsequently made, appointing masters of distinction whose values align with her philosophy and who work with the greatest passion to continue her legacy. One such master is Monsieur Arnaud Chastaingt, the Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio.

A graduate of the renowned Strate School in Paris, Monsieur Chastaingt was appointed Director of Watchmaking at CHANEL in 2013 after ten years at the helm of horlogerie at Cartier. Since then, he has worked with his team to create iconic timepieces such as the BOYFRIEND, CODE COCO, and MONSIEUR watches, the J12, PREMIÈRE and the MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ.

With five in-house calibres developed under his careful direction, CHANEL's Watchmaking Creation Studio has been recognised for its exceptional work, receiving the highest accolade in global watchmaking on six occasions, namely the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Such recognition only goes to demonstrate Monsieur Chastaingt's indelible impact in watch design, as he continues CHANEL's legacy.

Each year, Monsieur Chastaingt unveils a capsule that reflects his command of Watchmaking, celebrating the delicate balance between modernity, heritage and femininity, with past collections including the ELECTRO, WANTED DE CHANEL and CHANEL INTERSTELLAR CAPSULE ELECTRO.

The Blush capsule, released in September, draws from the house's signature aesthetic, reflecting the refined strength, elegance, and luxurious design language of CHANEL beauty products, where iconic monochromatic packaging illuminates pigments. Reinterpreting these codes, the watch strap and bezel lend an elegant backdrop to blush tones and time itself. Timepieces include the J12 BLUSH CALIBRE 12.1 and 12.2, infused with blush coloured indicators, set against a dark lacquer finish. The PREMIÈRE CUFF BLUSH features carefully selected pink leather hues weaving through a supple cuff inspired by the colour of the signature CHANEL blush palettes. In contrast, the BOYFRIEND features a quilted leather bracelet and playful illustration of Mademoiselle Chanel herself.

It is Monsieur Chastaingt's eloquent mastery of design and precision, interwoven with the power of storytelling, that renders his watches so compelling. 5'ELEVEN", spoke to him about his work as Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio, his core philosophies and process with the team, and the design codes that shaped the Blush capsule.

Words and interview by Leigh Maynard. All images courtesy of CHANEL Watches.

You studied at Strate School of Design in Paris. What first drew you into the world of watchmaking? Was there a particular person, moment, or influence that set you on this path?

At that time, I didn't have any particular affinity for watchmaking. My feeling was that this world was not a universe of creation, and more that of watchmakers. I associated watchmaking with a technical and mechanical world far removed from my aspirations. But in 2000, I had a revelation when I discovered the latest creation from the House of Chanel. It was a watch called the J12. I had an immediate crush on this radical and uncompromising creation. Chanel challenged my preconceived notions and I discovered that watchmaking could also be an inspiring playground for creation.

During your tenure you have created many iconic collections including BOYFRIEND, CODE COCO and MONSIEUR watches, is there a CHANEL collection that resonates with you personally above the others — and if so, why?

Each collection has its own creation story and associated memories. The complementarity of these creations is very important to me. Each of these watches has its own universe and codes. They were all born from a story of the Chanel style. The PREMIÈRE watch resonates a lot with me because it marks the House's entry into the world of watchmaking. Much more than a watch, it is a true lesson in style. In my opinion, this creation set the vision for CHANEL watchmaking.

How would you describe your vision and signature as a Creation Studio Director of watches?

AC: Creation is my language and truly the only mode of expression that has driven me for 45 years. Creating is the only thing I know how to do. Chanel was truly the ideal playground for me to express my vision of watchmaking. The watch is a fascinating object that I have always refused to view exclusively from the angle of an anxiety-inducing measuring object. The choice of a watch says a lot about you. A watch is an incredible vector of identity that defines you like no other. Look at my watch and I will tell you who I am! Chanel watchmaking has a unique and singular position in the world of watchmaking. In 1987, Chanel, a fashion house, entered the world of luxury watchmaking, without permission or compromise, and shook up the codes. The vision was set: the Chanel watch is an equation between style and excellence. A motto that I have cultivated every day for over 12 years.

What guiding philosophies do you encourage within your watchmaking team at CHANEL?

Chanel is a House of creation and watchmaking has not failed this rule. I am fortunate to be accompanied by a passionate and demanding team who always welcome new creative challenges and opportunities. This philosophy is invaluable for a creator.

Could you walk us through your creative process, from the initial idea to the unveiling of a new collection? Do your designs usually begin with a sketch, a material, or a story?

My creative approach is never the same, and fortunately so. In my opinion, creation cannot be processed, and inspiration always comes when you least expect it. It is not a calculated approach, and trying to provoke it would be a heresy. One thing is certain: I cannot create without a story. I always need meaning before starting to sketch.

In terms of the Blush Collection, what was the inspiration behind it?

A century ahead of her time, Gabrielle Chanel changed the codes of perfumery and cosmetics by launching the iconic N°5 perfume and a remarkably refined makeup line in the 1920s. As if these powders and lipsticks, housed in black lacquered cases, discarded colour only to better reveal it. A multifaceted duality that I chose to project into watchmaking. The aesthetic vocabulary of CHANEL beauty creations is fascinating and graphically very inspiring. I love the commanding elegance of these objects, their sophisticated architecture, their structured and balanced geometry; the radicality of the black lacquer that illuminates the texture of a rosy lipstick or powder. There is an aesthetic dimension of the artistic composition in these CHANEL creations. These palettes, these pencils, these brushes, these pigments, these textures, naturally led me to establish connections with artistic movements such as Dripping art or Pop Art.

As Director of the Watchmaking Creation Studio, how do you ensure CHANEL watches remain both forward-looking and timeless?

Creating with these two objectives is a utopia. My mission is to dream and to make people dream. My sole obsession is to cultivate the philosophy inherited from Gabrielle Chanel, namely an uncompromising freedom of creation.

If you had to describe CHANEL watches in just one sentence, what would it be?

CHANEL time is measured with Style.

Whether through the snap of a blush compact or the hands on a CHANEL watch, time for CHANEL is about consistency in design excellence, attention to detail, and reframing perspectives. Across time, the name CHANEL has always denoted ingenuity and elegance. Monsieur Chastaingt recognises these values, noting that a watch is not merely a window to time but also to our self-expression.

The Blush capsule celebrates the quiet rhythm of time through pioneering precision and visionary design, while cleverly encapsulating enduring beauty elements. From its inception in Monsieur Arnaud's mind, through his initial sketches, to the hands of extraordinary designers and watchmakers, and finally to your wrist, wearing a CHANEL timepiece is to wear the house's story and tell the world a little piece of your own. With timepieces built to last, that story will continue across generations. To that, we are sure Mademoiselle Chanel would say — Tick!