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SHAUN LEANE

Writer's picture: 5' ELEVEN''5' ELEVEN''
Interview with Jewellery Designer Shaun Leane for The Britannia & Éire Issue 5ELEVEN Magazine Alexander McQueen Couture Jewellery Designer

As with all artists, no matter the level of experimentation, there must always be a foundation of authentic and accomplished craftsmanship. Few embody this principle as profoundly as the iconic jewellery designer Shaun Leane. Known for his eponymous brand of convention-defying designs and his collaborations with the late Alexander McQueen, Shaun is a rare breed of creator, as we discovered during a conversation at his London home on a crisp September morning. Upon first meeting, what struck us was his warm and self-effacing manner. “It's [just] little old me,” he joked — a modest introduction that belied the immense talent I have admired for years. He announces that he has recently stepped down from his position within Shaun Leane Jewellery. A fresh chapter awaits.


Words by Leigh Maynard. Portrait by Ian Winstanley.


But first, let’s revisit the start of his story. Shaun’s journey into the jewellery world began unexpectedly during his school years. “It was a very academic school; it wasn't very creative,” he recalled. “I was a very rebellious, frustrated young pupil. I left school at the age of 14, but I had to go back legally because of my age. They insisted I had to do further education, so it was a careers officer who asked me what I was interested in. I said, ‘What about fashion design?’ He [replied], ‘You're too young. You have no qualifications. You won't get into a fashion school.’ [Instead],  he recommended a [Youth Training] Scheme —  a year-long foundation course in jewellery design and [manufacturing].  It sounded great: I [could] draw, design, and make things.”


What began as a compromise soon became a calling for Shaun. “When the tutors started to teach us how to use the files, saws, and solder [to] melt metal, something [awakened] in me,” Shaun shared. 


The young designer displayed a natural aptitude, completing the year-long course in just six months. Recognising his natural talent, his tutor advised him to pursue jewellery rather than fashion. This led to a seven-year apprenticeship at a prestigious atelier in Hatton Garden, London's historic jewellery district.  “I showed them my work, and when I told them I’d only been making jewellery for six months, they literally offered me an apprenticeship then and there.”


Interview with Jewellery Designer Shaun Leane for The Britannia & Éire Issue 5ELEVEN Magazine Alexander McQueen Couture Jewellery Designer
Campaign images from Shaun Leane latest collection for his eponymous brand

Shaun quickly advanced, bypassing the usual stages of training. Typically, apprentices begin with copper, then progress to silver, gold, and finally platinum over seven years. Shaun recalled, “I was [working] on gold within a year and making diamond tiaras by the age of 18.”


After completing his apprenticeship, he continued working with fine jewels until a fortuitous connection introduced him to Lee Alexander McQueen. Their shared working-class roots and love for the provocative quickly bonded the young designers, sparking a creative partnership that reshaped the boundaries of jewellery design and extended beyond friendship.


“Me and Lee were London,” Shaun recalled. “We liked the gritty edge, so we [sought out] the places where the provocateurs were — the ones who would provoke and question fashion, music, and everything [else]. That's where we found our vibe. We were a force of nature.”


Interview with Jewellery Designer Shaun Leane for The Britannia & Éire Issue 5ELEVEN Magazine Alexander McQueen Couture Jewellery Designer
Acky wearing Rose Thorn choker from Shaun Leane's archive. Sleeveless knit vest by Ferragamo

It wasn’t long before McQueen asked Shaun to create jewellery for his shows. “He had seen some of the pieces I was making and was quite blown away,” Shaun said. “I was daunted because fashion wasn't my world; I was conditioned to be a goldsmith. But Lee helped unlock the key.”


McQueen encouraged Shaun to experiment with unconventional materials, pushing the boundaries of his creativity by incorporating elements like pheasant feet, copper, and aluminium. “He thought out of the box,” Shaun recalled.


For their first show together, Highland Rape, Shaun created smaller pieces, and as their collaboration progressed, a creative synergy emerged. “By day, I was making fine, beautiful jewellery, and [by night], I could be provocative, [crafting] large-scale pieces from new materials. Because Lee's work was about empowering women, my jewellery took on that ethos, too.”

 As their partnership flourished, Shaun’s designs gained widespread attention.  “There became a strong demand for my work. People had seen what I was [creating] on the runway, and they wanted to wear pieces that echoed that same energy and [sense of] empowerment,” he said.


When Shaun set out to create his jewellery line, he combined opposing disciplines to craft pieces with a distinct voice. “I started to build my collections — modern classics, a natural fusion of my [traditional] training, and my avant-garde experience with McQueen,” he explained. 

One pivotal moment came in his workshop. “I had a long tusk, and I was about to solder onto a stag piece. I held it up to my ear, and the minute I did that, I felt my posture straighten. I remember looking in the mirror and [thinking], ‘That's fierce.’”


Interview with Jewellery Designer Shaun Leane for The Britannia & Éire Issue 5ELEVEN Magazine Alexander McQueen Couture Jewellery Designer Cover Elfie Reigate
5ELEVEN FW20 cover using Shaun Leane silver & rhodium quill choker and silver and black rhodium hook earrings.

Shaun's signature pieces, like the tusk earring, have since achieved iconic status. For Shaun, their appeal lies in their vibrancy and meaning. “It wasn't about rank. It wasn't about money. It was a simple, refined silhouette made from silver, [yet it carried] more power than diamond chandelier earrings. That was my message — my ethos. It was about empowerment.”


Over the years, Shaun has created iconic pieces like the coiled corset for McQueen's Autumn Winter 1999 collection, The Overlook. “The coiled corset is a different silhouette — armour-like and protective, yet it's made in a beautiful curvature that celebrates the female form,” he explained. The piece was both a stunning achievement and a significant challenge. “I worked 16 hours a day for eight weeks. Now, it's [part of] the Alexander McQueen archive.”


Another defining creation was the spine corset, which marked Shaun’s first experience with casting aluminium. “Carving all those vertebrae and ribs in wax was challenging. Aluminium cracks and breaks [easily], and that was very difficult, but [the process] helped me grow as a craftsman,” he recalled.


Hearing Shaun's passion, it’s evident that his bond with McQueen went beyond creative collaboration. “We were two boys [with] very similar upbringings. We were both dyslexic, shy, creative, and hurt; the only way we could get it out was through design. We never sat down and discussed it; our passion, deep feelings, and [the messages] we wanted to [convey] were precisely the same. That's why it was such an enduring, creative relationship.”


Interview with Jewellery Designer Shaun Leane for The Britannia & Éire Issue 5ELEVEN Magazine Alexander McQueen Couture Jewellery Designer

This shared sensibility is something Shaun feels is often missing in contemporary works. He admits there's too much fear and a reluctance to take risks, which ultimately stems from a lack of deep understanding of one's craft. “I see a lot of provocation, [but when it’s] poorly executed, [it falls flat]. But if I see an amazing building [that pushes] the boundaries of architecture yet is crafted to perfection, I have the utmost respect for it,” Shaun explained.  This is exactly what he aims for in his work. “Whether big or small, [every piece] is made to perfection. People might ask, ‘How do you wear that? Why do you wear that? [Isn’t] that a bit aggressive?’ Whatever the opinion, the key is they recognise its beauty.”


Today, Shaun Leane continues to craft extraordinary pieces, from the diamond glove for Daphne Guinness to collaborations with Björk, Beatrice's engagement ring, and even a recent design incorporating hair for a private client. While he admits it’s sometimes hard to part with his work, he embraces his purpose. “There’s a side to my work that’s very spiritual and deep. One of my purposes in life is to create — and [creating] brings joy to others. I feel very blessed that this was my calling.”


This interview is part of The Britannia & Éire Issue. Purchase your copy here.


Interview with Jewellery Designer Shaun Leane for The Britannia & Éire Issue 5ELEVEN Magazine Alexander McQueen Couture Jewellery Designer
Shaun Leane creating the Couture Jewellery for Alexander McQueen. Image from Shaun Leane's book

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