David Koma Fall Winter 2024 Collection. London, 17 February 2024
David Koma's Fall Winter 2024 collection summoned guests into an otherworldly realm within the cavernous depths of Ambika P3. This vast, disused concrete space was transformed through artful lighting and minimalist installations, evoking the feeling of stepping into an alien planet. Guests witnessed an avant-garde vision fusing sculptural shapes with maximalist embellishments, beckoning with alien glamour.
Creative director David Koma immersed us in an imaginary world where modernist Pina Bausch meets digital artist Candela Capitan. The collection paid homage to both dance costumes and experimental tech-art through manipulated silhouettes. Voluminous satin trousers billowed around legs while crisply tailored bustiers nipped waists, merging the sensual and severe. Chiffon sashes floated behind models dramatically like wings. Tutus morphed into mini skirt underlays, blossoming with tiers of feathers - a futuristic echo of Rebecca Horn's kinetic sculptures.
Sharp neoprene tailoring created razor-cut shapes, hugging curves like liquid metal. Sheer embroidered overlays refracted the light, adding ephemeral dimension. Vivid macramé gowns in hot pinks and electric lime emerald drew the eye down the runway with their uncanny glow. Models wearing sculptural tweed coats etched with fringed embroidery emerged like imperial officers from a galactic future.
As David Koma reflected on "interplays between light and movement" – fantasy and reality fused in these forward-thinking fabrics interpreting classical forms. While garments seemed effortlessly sculptural, intricate craftsmanship glittered under closer inspection. Crystal mesh bodices, hand-pleated chiffon trains, laser-cut leather panels, and Swarovski-encrusted knits dazzled with otherworldly detail.
