Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2024 Collection. Paris, 30 September 2023
Alexander McQueen's Spring Summer 2024 collection pays homage to the transformative
influence of fashion. Through meticulous workmanship and haute couture methods,
Creative Director Sarah Burton has woven the female form into wearable art.
The venue, Le Carreau du Temple, reverberated with creativity. Four towering, textured
sculptures by Magdalena Abakanowicz established the ambience. Burton continued to
intertwine artistry and human anatomy through textiles, embracing contrasts between the
sensual and austere. Fabrics ranged from washed Peau de Soie to wool scuba to airy tulle.
Tailoring and corsetry meticulously sculpted the silhouette.
A prominent motif featured red roses by David Sims, blossoming on black chiffon and
bleeding into ivory, and this honoured McQueen's signature flower whilst pushing
boundaries. Embroidery also celebrated the female figure, including an ivory silk tulle gown
depicting anatomy in silver thread, beads, and gemstones. It referenced illustrations from
the National Library of Medicine, reimagined through Burton's perspective.
The collection embraces innovation. A jacket and skirt appeared wrought from gold
shredded knit, resembling armour. Denim and leather merged seamlessly into a fringe skirt
and corset. Dresses combined powder pink silk with structured black gazar, supported by
clever tailoring.
Upon closer examination, Burton's vision exudes both strength and delicacy. Shoulder pads
balanced bare-backed gowns. Tailored jackets cinched at the waist stood alongside frothy
tulle and corsetry-shaped sensuous contours. The romanticism of fluttering sleeves
softened razor-sharp tailoring.
Burton celebrated masculinity and femininity. Oversized coats and tuxedo tailoring met
embroidered lace and petal skirts. She deconstructed the tailored jacket, lacing it with
boning. Trousers paired with corsets challenged gender conventions, revelling in complexity.
As her finale, this collection serves as Burton's heartfelt tribute to fashion's transformative
potential. Her couture techniques and reverence for workmanship honoured the female
form. Infused with nostalgia, it immortalised her legacy at the house through breathtaking
clothes. While Burton may be departing, her influence will undoubtedly continue inspiring
McQueen for seasons to come.
