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  • Writer's pictureAdam Chan


Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2024 Collection. Paris, 30 September 2023

Alexander McQueen's Spring Summer 2024 collection pays homage to the transformative

influence of fashion. Through meticulous workmanship and haute couture methods,

Creative Director Sarah Burton has woven the female form into wearable art.

The venue, Le Carreau du Temple, reverberated with creativity. Four towering, textured

sculptures by Magdalena Abakanowicz established the ambience. Burton continued to

intertwine artistry and human anatomy through textiles, embracing contrasts between the

sensual and austere. Fabrics ranged from washed Peau de Soie to wool scuba to airy tulle.

Tailoring and corsetry meticulously sculpted the silhouette.

A prominent motif featured red roses by David Sims, blossoming on black chiffon and

bleeding into ivory, and this honoured McQueen's signature flower whilst pushing

boundaries. Embroidery also celebrated the female figure, including an ivory silk tulle gown

depicting anatomy in silver thread, beads, and gemstones. It referenced illustrations from

the National Library of Medicine, reimagined through Burton's perspective.

The collection embraces innovation. A jacket and skirt appeared wrought from gold

shredded knit, resembling armour. Denim and leather merged seamlessly into a fringe skirt

and corset. Dresses combined powder pink silk with structured black gazar, supported by

clever tailoring.

Upon closer examination, Burton's vision exudes both strength and delicacy. Shoulder pads

balanced bare-backed gowns. Tailored jackets cinched at the waist stood alongside frothy

tulle and corsetry-shaped sensuous contours. The romanticism of fluttering sleeves

softened razor-sharp tailoring.

Burton celebrated masculinity and femininity. Oversized coats and tuxedo tailoring met

embroidered lace and petal skirts. She deconstructed the tailored jacket, lacing it with

boning. Trousers paired with corsets challenged gender conventions, revelling in complexity.

As her finale, this collection serves as Burton's heartfelt tribute to fashion's transformative

potential. Her couture techniques and reverence for workmanship honoured the female

form. Infused with nostalgia, it immortalised her legacy at the house through breathtaking

clothes. While Burton may be departing, her influence will undoubtedly continue inspiring

McQueen for seasons to come.


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