WHERE CARDAMOM MEETS CRAFT

‘Tote’ recycled sterling silver and white rhodium plated earrings by Maria Black. Grey chiffon top, brown leather top and grey chiffon skirt, all by REMAIN. Sheer brown knee socks by FALKE ‘Vivi 65’ lizard printed leather mules in coffee by Jimmy Choo.

Brand Stories Woven Through Copenhagen Streets

On a crisp spring morning in Copenhagen, cyclists glide past rows of terraced houses, designers sketch and drape from sunlit studios above cafés, and the scent of cardamom drifts from corner bakeries. There’s no rush here, no spectacle, no paparazzi or velvet ropes – just a gentle, steady rhythm to the day that feels entirely intentional. Look a little closer, and you will notice the same rhythm running through the city’s fashion scene, where style is revealed in  subtler ways: in the perfectly tailored drape of a wool coat, the layering of innovative textures, or the clever blend of old and new. Fashion is not about a single event here; it's practised, lived, and shaped by the pragmatism of Nordic life. A quieter, circular fashion revolution is underway — one that is built to last - not merely a trend. 

Words by Sabrina Ciauri

Cille Vejlsgaard at Unique Models photographed by Matthew Minton. Styled by Tasha Arguile. Hair and Make-up by Juho Lehiö using MAC Cosmetics. Casting by Lewis Waters. Photographers assistants Jacob Carbuhn and Eduardo Pallaoro. Special thanks to Hotel Sanders.

The Sonya’ 18k gold plated sterling silver earrings and ‘The Freya’ 18k gold plated brass bracelet, both by Lié Studio. Glossy relaxed trench coat, layered cotton denim jacket, tie side denim tank top and wide barrow leg denim jeans, all by STEL. Brown cotton socks by Falke. ‘Vivi 65’ lizard printed leather mules in coffee by Jimmy Choo.

STEL by Astrid Andersen reflects this quiet revolution, reimagining tailoring for movement and modern life. Described as “tailoring you can skate in, denim you can dance in, and shirting you can travel in,” STEL designs  with Copenhagen’s tempo in mind: fluid, adaptable, and deeply functional. 

“Each collection is inspired by the previous as they evolve together and intertwine,” Andersen says. She draws from architecture and minimalism, translating spatial awareness into fashion: “I’m influenced by minimalism and functionality the same way an architect [uses] shape and proportion…‘Form follows function’ is the premise of tailoring you can skate in.” 

With roots in menswear, STEL empowers women through comfort, function, and movement — the brand’s three pillars. Adjustable waistbands, layered silhouettes, and self-styling details provide garments with autonomy, designed to shift and  grow with the wearer, offering flexibility beyond trends or seasons. 

left: ‘La Danse’ 18k recycled yellow gold earrings with 1.73 carat Top Wesselton VVS diamonds  and ‘Ensemble Ruban’ 18k recycled yellow gold ring with 0.73 carat Top Wesselton VVS diamonds both by Sophie Billie Brahe. Eloise’ black quilted jacket by OpéraSPORT right: ‘La Valse Trois Temps’ 14K certified recycled yellow gold with freshwater pearl earrings and ‘Peggy’ in 14K certified recycled yellow gold with freshwater pearls necklace, both by Sophie Billie Brahe. Black crepe blazer and white ‘Babette’ blouse, both by MKDT.

OpéraSPORT shares this ethos, merging the functionality of sportswear with refined tailoring to create pieces that are effortlessly modern and enduring. Clean lines, fluid silhouettes,  muted palettes, and considered materials create wardrobe staples built for longevity. “Each piece is made with versatility in mind, without compromising on aesthetics,” says co-founder Awa Malina Stelter. Working with recycled and upcycled materials fosters what she calls “creative reinterpretations of resources,” with circularity embedded in the design philosophy. OpéraSport embodies what the future of Danish fashion demands: not just designing clothes, but rethinking how they are made and why they matter.

Bonnetje, known for their upcycled suits, deconstructs and reimagines deadstock materials into striking silhouettes.. With each piece, co-founders Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Rahbek examine themes of structure, identity, and transformation. “We enjoy exploring dualities,” they explain, “examining different shapes and cuts with the materials the suits offer.” 

Unexpected details — like a suitcase latch as a blazer closure — express this ethos. Through the creative limitations of tailoring, their work becomes sculptural and quietly rebellious, challenging excess while celebrating form. 

right: ‘Splash’ recycled sterling silver and white rhodium plated extra large hoop earrings and choker, both by Maria Black. Upcycled vintage blazer with lock closure and upcycled patched panel capri trousers, both by Bonnetje. ‘Lotta Mule 65’ in light teal ruched tulle by Jimmy Choo left: Upcycled vintage blazer with lock closure and upcycled patched panel capri trousers, both by Bonnetje.

A more sensual and feminine contrast is found in REMAIN, where boxy leather jackets pair with mini skirts and structured blazers fall over fluid  satin dresses.  “I love how much beauty there is in playing with masculine and feminine hues,” says Denise Christensen, CEO of the Birger Christensen Collective. The REMAIN aesthetic is bold yet intimate, minimal yet emotional — rooted in Nordic restraint but made for everyday life. Each piece reflects the complexities of modern womanhood, offering a confident, layered approach to femininity. 

In the jewellery world, Sophie Bille Brahe creates modern heirlooms.  “My designs are inspired by life’s most precious moments,” she shares, recalling a classic pearl necklace gifted by her mother after the birth of her son. The traditional design did not align with her aesthetic, so she reimagined it — her signature: a gradual shift in pearl sizes. Sophie’s pieces, including diamond rings and tennis necklaces, reflect nature’s contrast — the curve of an ocean wave, the stillness of the horizon.  “Diamonds are meant to be worn, not tucked away,” she explains. Her jewellery preserves tradition while modernising its meaning — timeless design meant to be passed down through generations. 

‘The Julie’ 18k gold plated sterling silver earrings by LIÉ Studio. White puff sleeve bubble top by ROTATE Birger Christensen. Custom Pandora necklace for ROTATE Birger Christensen SS25 show, worn as a belt. ‘Aveline’ black knit trousers by OpéraSPORT.

Soleya, founded by Ziva A. Rozsa draws from her Moroccan-Jewish and Danish heritage, with storytelling at the heart of every piece. “Each piece is incomplete until someone wears it, adding their own memories and meaning,” she says. Inspired by childhood visits to her uncle’s diamond-cutting workshop and stories passed down from her grandmother in Casablanca, Ziva crafts jewellery steeped in memory and identity. Sustainability is core to Soleya — all pieces are made from recycled and repurposed materials, with a production process grounded in transparency, longevity, and generational values. 

LIÉ Studio, created by twin sisters Amalie and Cecile Moosgaard, designs sculptural yet understated jewellery and leather goods.  “We want pieces that feel effortless yet have a statement quality… pieces that can elevate an outfit without feeling like too much,” they say. Their work reflects Scandinavian sensibility: practical, pared-back, quietly luxurious. Each clasp,stitch, and shape is deliberate — a uniform for modern life, designed with intention.

‘Elysia’ grande leaf and leaf 14k recycled gold with 3 TW VS diamond earrings, both by Soleya. Brown lamb leather coat by Herskind.

Maria Black brings a tactile and conceptual edge. Her recent Aquatic collection evokes an underwater future — liquid-like metal forms made from recycled sterling silver, sculpted with electroforming. Her Spring Summer 2025 collection, THIS IS NOT A BAG, introduces  miniature handbags designed to stand upright — wearable sculptures that blur the line between form and function, and between sculpture and style. Maria’s playful design philosophy proves that concept and craft can coexist — always grounded in self-expression and radical individuality that feels unmistakably Copenhagen. 

With a similarly precise eye Birgitte Herskind begins every collection with the fabrics — often sourced in Milan — letting texture, shape, and colour guide her design direction.” She pairs this fabric-first approach with inspiration from her surroundings, particularly architecture, art, and the streets of the city, observing how materials, shapes, and  colours interact. At the core of her collections are sharp tailoring and effortless silhouettes, with close attention paid to what she calls “the inside seams, the pocket placement, the buttons.” Herskind believes strongly in the quality and sustainability of materials, ensuring each piece is made to last — so that customers can keep their garments for years, disrupting the increasingly short lifespans of clothing from so many other fashion houses. 

left: ‘Tote’ recycled sterling silver and 18k gold plated earrings by Maria Black. Black leather patchwork coat by Freya Dalsjø. Bodysuit, stylist’s own right: Brown lamb leather coat and shorts, both by Herskind. Net tights by FALKE.

MKDT Studio continues this tradition of versatility and individuality. “We blend heritage craftsmanship with modern silhouettes, fresh textures, and unexpected details that feel effortlessly relevant.” says creative director Caroline Engelaar. The Spring Summer 2025 collection draws from bohemian and  rock influences, marrying sophistication with a sense of edge. “Our designs honour the artistry of the past while speaking to the confidence and dynamism of the present,” she explains. Following a recent rebrand, the label is embracing high-end occasionwear that prioritises comfort, quality, and timeless print work — garments that move with the wearer and endure beyond seasonal trends.

At the more conceptual end of the spectrum, Freya Dalsjø — a graduate of the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts — approaches design like architecture for the body, crafting both jewellery and bespoke clothing. Her silhouettes reconfigure movement and structure, pairing Merino knits with sculptural leather coats, embracing softness and rigidity in equal measure. Her quiet radicalism exemplifies the best of Copenhagen fashion: deliberate, artistic, enduring.

‘The Julie’ sterling silver earrings by LIÉ Studio. ‘Splash’ recycled sterling silver and white rhodium plated choker by Maria Black. Denim jumpsuit by Won Hundred.‘Lotta Mule 65’ in light teal ruched tulle by Jimmy Choo.

Won Hundred, under the creative leadership of Nikolaj Nielsen, refines denim down to every detail. “From the wash, trim, and treatments to the construction and fabric, [denim]  is one of the most complex products there is. It can take time to achieve the right wash on the right fabric, to bring it to the place where I envisioned it,” he explains. Nikolaj works circularly, often drawing on previous collections to develop new ideas while remaining true to the brand’s DNA. This past year marked a milestone for Won Hundred as the brand began implementing an advanced system to meticulously measure the environmental impact of water usage in its denim production — aiming to trace every drop of water used in a single pair of jeans. While Nielsen acknowledges it’s not the complete solution to the industry's sustainability challenges, it is part of a wider push toward accountability and environmental transparency. Won Hundred’s efforts represent a model of how sustainability can scale across the wider fashion industry.

If denim grounds the city, then Stine Goya makes it bloom. Known for joyful palettes and painterly prints, Goya’s latest collection features powder pink and butter yellow — a vibrant break from Nordic minimalism. Yet beneath her whimsy lies rigour: the tailoring is sharp, the pieces are responsibly produced using circular methods and recycled fabrics. Goya’s work proves that colour and conscience can coexist beautifully within the Danish fashion scene.

‘The Vera’ 18k gold plated sterling silver earrings and ‘The Freya’ 18k gold plated brass bracelet by LIÉ Studio. Navy faux leather hybrid biker and structured trousers with striped detailing, both by Stine Goya.

ROTATE struts confidently with opulent colours, sleek silhouettes, and luscious fabrics. Founded by stylists and influencers Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars, the brand delivers evening glamour with equal parts drama and comfort — all while maintaining a distinctly Scandinavian sense of practicality. Its signature mini dress is made for Copenhagen’s most extroverted, and the collections have since expanded to include statement bridalwear, denim sets, and even casual sweat sets. “I feel a big part of ROTATE’s success is our commitment to creating collections that are not just relevant but also styles we would genuinely wear ourselves,” says Valdimars. The brand’s authenticity — and the high energy that pulses through each design — has firmly placed ROTATE in Copenhagen’s fashion spotlight. 

The next time you bite into a cinnamon roll or stroll across Dronning Louises Bro, look around. You will notice the quiet rebellion. In Copenhagen, fashion does not shout — it whispers in tailoring, in quality, in movement. It lives in the folds of a structured blazer, the detail of a leather stitch, the balance of beauty and function. Here, clothes are not made to chase attention, but to accompany you — built to last, to evolve, to be lived in. Fashion in Copenhagen doesn’t follow the rhythm of the runway. It walks at the pace of life.

This piece is from The Island Issue 14. Purchase your copy here.

left: ‘The Andrea’ 18k gold plated sterling silver earrings by LIÉ Studio. Custom Pandora necklace for ROTATE Birger Christensen SS25 show right: ‘The Andrea’ 18k gold plated sterling silver earrings by LIÉ Studio. Custom Pandora necklace for ROTATE Birger Christensen SS25 show. Denim button detail dress by ROTATE Birger Christensen. ‘Vivi 65’ lizard printed leather mules in coffee by Jimmy Choo.