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  • Writer's pictureAdam Chan


Undercover Spring Summer 2024 Collection. Paris, 27 September 2023

Undercover's Spring Summer 2024 collection conjures a haunting, dreamlike world through

avant-garde craftsmanship. In Paris, guests witnessed a mystical realm materialise on the

runway, veiled in diaphanous layers.

Words by Adam Chan.

This season immerses us in creative director Jun Takahashi's signature avant-garde aesthetic, grounded in dark romance. Familiar codes like oversized varsity jackets are elevated through gauzy overlays, creating a fading, dematerialising effect. A sheer organza coat layered over a faded graphic tee blurs the line between imagination and reality. While muted hues of ink blue and ash grey ground the collection, metallic embellishments inject an illuminating glimmer.

The venue's underground setting heightened the oscillation between light and dark. Models emerged from the shadows in sharp silhouettes that cut through the haze. Yet, as they moved farther down the runway, their forms dissolved into transparency; this invited guests into a liminal world, appreciating fashion's power to obscure and reveal.

The collection ended with three live butterflies inside bulbous organza dresses, their fluttering wings giving an irresistible burst of magical realism. The fairy-like image offered a moment of innocence and wonder, a glimpse of enchantment within the gloomy daydream. As always with Undercover, dreamlike fantasy is anchored by expert technique. While the clothes floated in a misty gloom, intricate craftsmanship granted weight behind the scenes. This collection revels in revealing and concealing, using craft to materialise the mythical. It's a tribute to the design team and an invocation of fashion's power to open portals to other realms.


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