At the Palais Galliera, a long-awaited milestone is finally unveiled—the first exhibition in over 40 years dedicated to a single designer and their mastery of hat-making. Bold and eccentric, it's only fitting that British milliner Stephen Jones is the one to break the mould of this 19th-century museum. Renowned for its devotion to fashion and its rich history, the Palais Galliera invites Parisians and visitors alike to admire and revel in the visionary creations brought to life by this legendary hat designer.
Words by Tatiana Summers.
The exhibition offers a captivating journey through Stephen Jones' life, experiences and work, immersing visitors in his avant-garde world. A sequence of sparkling yet dimly lit rooms is complemented by a New Romantic soundtrack carefully chosen by the milliner himself. From his childhood in Liverpool and his time studying at Saint Martin's School of Art in London to his involvement as a Blitz Kid during the New Romantic movement, we gain insight into Jones' influences and the inspirations that shaped his career. Perhaps most importantly, how the designer came to know and work with some of the coolest names in the counterculture, and ones that would consequently pull him into Parisian society and couture.
1. Je ne sais quoi, PE 2010; 2. Rose Royce, AH 1996-97; 3. Cocteau, PE 2010 all images by Peter Ashworth
Among the nearly 400 works displayed at the Palais, visitors will find a yellow submarine hat (paying tribute to Liverpool's Beatles), a bold French tricolour top hat, and a fair share of feathered fascinators. Yet, Jones' penchant for Paris could not be clearer. Whether reflecting the French national flag or the Tour Eiffel, his designs incorporate French culture and Parisian couture in a dazzling array of caps, crowns, bonnets, and berets, capturing France's spirit, distinctive style, and essence - especially Paris.
With silhouettes complete with a designer collection of clothing and hats, the exhibition captures a variety of Jones' fascinatingly unique and extraordinarily different collaborations with some of the world's most respected fashion designers including Jean Paul Gaultier, Thom Browne, Dior and Comme de Garçons. It demonstrates the power of headwear to shape, elevate and define one's look, establishing its essential role in fashion.
At age 67, Stephen Jones has played, and continues to play, an instrumental role in fashion and couture. The exhibition leaves no room for debate about the designer's imagination and skill, nor the Palais' decision to dedicate such a profound exhibition after all these years.
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