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SCHIAPARELLI Couture SS25

Writer's picture: Adam ChanAdam Chan
Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2025 Collection. Paris, 27th January 2025 Fashion Week Spring Summer 2025

Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2025 Collection. Paris, 27th January 2025


Schiaparelli's Spring Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, was a masterful exploration of texture and historical craftsmanship that felt both reverential and revolutionary. Daniel Roseberry's starting point — antique ribbons from the 1920s and 1930s —sparked a collection that challenged our modern obsession with minimalism, instead embracing the ornate and baroque with unabashed enthusiasm.


Words by Adam Chan.


The textiles were nothing short of extraordinary. Vintage ribbons in butter, saffron, and peacock green were transformed into architectural masterpieces. Particularly noteworthy was the manipulation of traditional materials in unexpected ways: ostrich feathers bathed in glycerin to achieve a weighted, almost liquid movement reminiscent of 1930s monkey fur, and silk georgette embroidered with Japanese bugle beads mounted onto French corset toile.

The show's pinnacle arrived with Kendall Jenner in Look 31, a testament to Roseberry's technical virtuosity. The strapless corset dress, with its exaggerated hips and draped pearl grey duchesse satin, featured meticulous embroidery work that showcased the house codes through traditional satin stitch. The large bow and back lacing added dramatic flair while maintaining the collection's historical resonance.


Throughout the presentation, Roseberry's deep dive into couture history was evident in his materials: ultra-suede embellished with silk satin threadwork, double satins that caught the light like liquid metal, and plissé halters in sand-coloured polyamide tulle that gave contemporary weight to historical silhouettes. The innovative use of fabric technology — particularly in the seamless corsetry achieved through layers of wool and cotton beneath elastic-stretched silk satin — demonstrated how traditional haute couture techniques can evolve for the modern era.


What made this collection particularly compelling was its textile narrative — each piece told a story through its materials, whether it was the buttery duchess satins, the intricate beadwork, or the glycerin-treated feathers. Roseberry's collection served as a reminder that true innovation in fashion doesn't always mean looking forward; sometimes it means rediscovering and reimagining the past through a contemporary lens.


This collection was haute couture at its most thought-provoking — a collection that questioned our contemporary assumptions about modernity while celebrating the enduring appeal of artisanal craftsmanship. In doing so, Schiaparelli has once again proven itself to be a house that doesn't just make clothes but creates conversations about the very nature of fashion itself.



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