PATER NOSTER

A Guiding Light of Sustainable Luxury

As we entered the lighthouse keeper's lodge at Pater Noster, Lou Reed’s familiar lyrics filled the air: “It’s Such a Perfect Day.” A song from another world yet ideally suited to this one. On a tiny island off Sweden’s west coast, surrounded by a horizon where the sun meets the sea, the moment felt impossible to replicate.

Words by Leigh Maynard

Named after its striking red lighthouse, Pater Noster — Latin for “Our Father” — was once a beacon of hope for sailors navigating the perilous waters of western Sweden. Today, it offers guests the rare opportunity to experience life in the lighthouse keeper’s residence, surrounded by the raw beauty and solitude of the open sea.

The adventure begins in the calm of Marstrand, with its bobbing boats and close-knit island community. A speedboat whisks you across the water on an invigorating 15-minute journey. Upon arrival at Pater Noster’s rugged coastline, you're warmly greeted by the team — including Mirja, the hotel's founder — who offers a tour of this award-winning destination. As a protected heritage site, the hotel is deeply committed to preserving the island’s history and architecture. Mirja shares stories of the past and a thoughtful, forward-looking vision — a mission clearly close to her heart.

Once you’ve settled in, wander into the drawing room. It feels as though the lighthouse master has just stepped out. Guests are invited to read, sketch, converse, or simply unwind among the carefully curated, award-winning interiors — including wallpaper inspired by the island’s iconography, lighthouse construction, flora, and sea life.

The dining room, wrapped in deep forest green and accented with dramatic artwork, is a masterpiece in itself. Mirja explains that in years past, this very room served as the first point of contact for arriving captains. You can almost hear their stories still echoing in the walls.

The nine individually designed rooms are housed in the former lighthouse keeper’s cabins, each subtly nodding to maritime life through nautical hues, natural materials, and handpicked furnishings. In our room, a wooden writing desk stood ready, complete with a sketch pad and pencils for creative guests. Thoughtful touches were everywhere: bathrobes and slippers for the hot tub or sauna, binoculars for sea-watchers, and a paper bag placed thoughtfully for collecting washed-up refuse. Bathrooms were fragrant with locally inspired scents, while hallways were lined with classic yellow and navy Sou'westers, ready if the weather turned.

From the Captain’s Lodge to the sauna, every space faces the sea — where the only soundtrack (besides Lou’s) is the whisper of wind and the gentle roll of waves. And then there’s the lighthouse itself, an inspiration for the Eiffel Tower, where a climb rewards you with panoramic views and the breathtaking sight of the sun sinking into the sea.

After a quiet wander through the island’s hidden coves, we paused to savour its culinary gifts. Our vegetarian lunch featured a delicate asparagus soup, garnished with freshly picked vegan “caviar” from Johan — a chef and marine biologist who snorkels for seaweed and sources local delicacies to craft exceptional, sea-inspired dishes. Meals are served in the dining room by day and by candlelight in the atmospheric boathouse at night.

You won’t miss the mainland at Pater Noster; here, nature and human creativity are interwoven across the island. Sketch the sea, sip champagne in the hot tub, or visit the lighthouse master’s former bathroom — now transformed into a unique listening space for discovering local musicians. In summer, gather around the Midsummer Table for an al fresco feast with friends, or sleep beneath the stars in a bed perched by the water’s edge. The sauna is a standout: warm yourself by the coals, reflect in silence, and watch the wild sea through a timber frame.

This experience wouldn’t be possible without the care and determination of the community in and around Marstrand, who fought to save the lighthouse from decay. Now beautifully restored, the island gives back — from its Green Cube initiative for the rainforest to hosting sustainability-focused conferences. Once a guardian for sailors, Pater Noster now offers a platform to help protect the planet.

In a world of noise and constant information, Pater Noster is unmatched — a haven of quiet, understated luxury. A place to pause. To reflect. To remember that it is in our closeness to nature that we rediscover harmony.

For more information, visit Pater Noster's website