MARK FAST SS27
Mark Fast Spring Summer 2027 Collection. London, September 17th, 2026
For Spring Summer 2027, Mark Fast presents Primal Glamour - a collection exploring the tension between instinct and control through the brand's signature language of sensual, body-conscious knitwear.
This collection drew inspiration from decades past, including Veruschka (Vera von Lehndorff), one of the most distinctive and influential fashion models of her era. “It was the photographs. I was looking at Veruschka in the '60s and '70s. I really loved the imagery. She's a very unusual beauty, and I'm very drawn to her. And some of the images she had, in the desert with the cheetah, half bird, half human. So I like that mix of wild and soft.”
Words by Leigh Maynard
Mark’s commitment and mastery of knitwear continues to evolve season to season. For Spring Summer 27, many of the pieces were delicately woven, exposing bodies in intricately crafted compositions that revealed a second skin, the defining feel of this collection. Engineered knits, open mesh, crochet and laddered constructions revealed and sculpted the body through shifts in texture, transparency and tension. At the same time, reptilian surfaces and feathered textures leaned into animalistic influences that also channelled Gothic romanticism.
The collection expands beyond traditional knitwear, combining knitted suede-like textures with washed denim, liquid stretch fabrics and relaxed tailoring. Mark explained some of the techniques used. “I worked with a lot of different stones, and I used those as beadery that I mixed within the knitwear kinda to create a new scale, more armour-like knit. And I started using different yarns and different textures and different proportions, and some linen yarns as well, so it looks like suede.”
Known for his bright colour palettes, Mark shared insight this season on his choice of more muted natural tones, this season combining sand, bone, chalk and sun-faded neutrals, grounded by earthy palettes and anchored by black, creating a contrast between darkness and light. “I think it's like that desert. It's that- it just felt right, that sandy palette. I love those Gothic, dusty colours in the desert- what are faded and what would be a pop of colour. So just a mix.”
The designer’s clothes explore that tension between the body and the materials; he explained how he developed that concept for Spring Summer 27. “I'm so technical with my knitwear, I jump from a tension five, which is very technical, to a tension eight, and then the whole stitch gets looser, and it's more stretchy, so then you're allowed to do different things. So it's like it's different tension in the machine that makes everything seem different.” The outlines of the collection are infused with the glamour of 1970s cinema; long, lean silhouettes, ballerina-inspired details - micro skirts, ruffles and lace - collide with oversized outerwear, distressed denim and fluid tailoring.
Of course every designer puts their heart into each piece, but for Mark, the last look on the runway was not only a standout but also a celebration of his work over the years and his personal style. “I would say, I love my finale look, and it takes me back to ten years, fifteen years ago. I don't know why, but that kind of feeling of being a goth or what I wanted knitwear always to be.”
And though every collection reveals its own triumphs after the show, this time Mark enthuses, it left its distinct mark. “I think this collection brought the enjoyment of knitting and having a purpose and, I don't know, it just seemed like a different season for me in my head. I don't know what it was. Maybe it was a break, but it just felt more fine-tuned for me.”
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