ILONA PERCZYK
- Leigh Maynard
- 16 hours ago
- 13 min read
The best in their field usually reach the height of their profession through a combination of key ingredients: commitment, tenacity, talent and vision. The same can be said of Holborn Dining Room’s head chef, Ilona Perczyk. Against advice that sought to steer her onto a different course, she pursued her dream — a brave choice in this male-dominated arena. Still, this decision would not only take Ilona into some of the most prestigious hotels, such as the Lanesborough, where she worked as part of an award-winning team, but it would also lead her to head up the kitchen of one of London’s most renowned luxury hotels, Rosewood London. Today, Ilona leads the team at one of the city’s most respected kitchens, with confidence and vision, serving a menu that elevates traditional British classics.
Words by Leigh Maynard
Hailing from Poland, Ilona has chased her dream with sincerity, enthusiasm and dedication. With one eye firmly on the restaurant’s culinary heritage and the other on the future, she has transformed Holborn Dining Room’s menu with its famous pies like beluga lentil and wild mushroom, or braised beef steak, and dishes like pan-fried stone bass with keta caviar and lemon verbena sauce, or Cornish red chicken breast with cauliflower mushroom. All dishes celebrate heritage flavours and are changing perceptions of British dining. This includes the restaurant’s famed Sunday roasts, as well as evenings that bring people together, including ‘Welly Wednesdays’, where guests can sample a modern take on beef wellington. Together with her team, Ilona has built a seasonally sustainable menu, crafting dishes with a team whose opinions are vital, all while ensuring that Holborn Dining Room remains authentic, sustainable and at the forefront of modern British dining.
5'ELEVEN" Magazine asked Ilona to share her inspirational story, the ideas behind her dishes, and her hopes for the future.
Was there a moment or a particular person who fired your imagination for cooking?
For me, there were two people in my life. And I think one place. So, going back, my mum was a chef back home, and every summer, whenever I had free time from school and wanted to make some extra money, I worked with her. But she was the one who was always pushing me away from that. She’d say, ‘No, it's too hard. It's too complicated. You won't enjoy it. It's long hours and lots of pressure.’ I studied chemistry for a few years, played the cello, and took singing lessons. So, I felt like she was doing everything that she could to push me away from that. But when I came here to the UK, of course, I needed work. I needed to find a place to get the money. So, for me, going to the kitchen and applying for this kind of position was easy because at least I knew something. I knew the basics of cooking. So, I was fortunate to find this place — the Goring Hotel. That was the place for me. I got the opportunity to meet this amazing chef, Shay Cooper, who became my mentor. So those two people in my life, they really inspired me.
When you worked at the Goring, what things did you learn from your mentor that have stayed with you for the work that you do here?
13 years ago, when I came here, I didn't speak much English. Shay offered me a job. I don't know what he saw in me, but he trusted me. I remember that was a second comi position. His position didn’t exist anymore. So, he treated me like his student. He showed me everything — from the basics— how to make a sauce, and even how to communicate with the team — because there was an English barrier from the beginning. I had a problem with that. I mean, they never gave up on me. They were always helping me. He was very good with British classics. So, all the knowledge I have, I have it from him. That was a very long process. After seven years, I thought, that's enough for me. I can move somewhere else.
Do you think you always wanted to go down the route of modern British cuisine, or was it the influence of your previous positions?
From the beginning, I didn't even understand what it was, what the British classics were. But then, spending time with Shay — and, of course, the more I knew and the more I saw it — I was studying, going to places, and trying to explore more, and then for me, it was never enough. I really remember the moment when we received the Michelin award. I was working on a subsection; I didn't even understand Michelin. And then I thought, ‘Wow, what is happening? What is it?’ So, there was even more for me, and these first 10 years were a mind-blowing experience. So, I was learning a lot about the British classics. He was always really hard on me, but I will be forever grateful.
What have been some of the highlights of your career so far?
There are a few things that I'm really proud of, and I always will be. And even here, I'm always proud that someone sees me and trusts me to lead this team and be in charge of this restaurant. I mean, it's a huge operation, and this is something that I always think about, like, ‘what did they see in me that they said, ‘Right, she can do it, and she'll be great.’ The second highlight, I think, would be the moment we received the Michelin star. I mean, that wasn't me — the head chef who got the star; I was part of the team. And that was teamwork. And I remember the day and the moment.
What is it about hotel restaurants that appeals to you, or is that just a natural path that you've taken?
It is natural. I remember back at the SBO Hotel; I spent a few years at the Goring Hotel, then moved to the SBO Hotel. So, they are both five-star hotels, and I remember that conversation we had within the teams. ‘Where would you go next? What would be the next move for you?', I knew it would be a hotel, and I remember mentioning that as well. I don't even know why. Then, when I did a little bit more research — learning about the building itself and seeing the scale of the operation — I thought, yeah, that could be the next move, potentially, if, of course, they give me a chance, and they did.
So apart from the pies, is there any other signature dish that you and the team are especially proud of here?
I mean, I think we're quite active with everything that we do. There is so much. We've worked on the menus, and, of course, we have the famous pies. And there are a few things I'm always trying to do. The aspect I'm really proud of is the vegan dishes on our menu. I think for me, this is what I've seen before, and I'm trying to go away from that; the chefs are being very clever, putting just a few ingredients on a plate and calling it vegan because it doesn't contain any dairy. We are already putting a lot of focus on making sure this dish is composed by us. And then when we serve it. People sometimes don't even realise they're vegan, so that would be one. And of course, now the Sunday roast is something we are extremely proud of. I remember thinking about the Sunday roast and the whole concept. I knew we wanted to have it like a family-style sharing concept. I always have a problem when I go to a restaurant. I always think there's not enough on a plate. So, we had this idea of a beautiful sharing concept with all the side dishes. And then, I’m particularly proud that we serve a whole chicken, and the waiter is carving it. And there's a little bit of show. I think it's a beautiful Sunday roast. And everyone is very particular about the potato, about the biggest pudding. I'm proud of my team that every Sunday, we execute it very well, and then we have lots of people coming back. So, I think pies and Sunday roast. Of course, on Wednesday, we do Wednesday Wellington as well, which is super popular. Everything is really traditional but done our way.
How do you find that balance between tradition and innovation with the dishes?
This is what we do with everything. We have our beautiful mission statement in the kitchen, where we take these homey, beloved dishes and elevate them. We use high-quality ingredients and in-season products. So, every time we create a dish, we think about the classics and what we can do to elevate them. I like this moment when people are looking at the menu, and thinking, ‘Okay, that's a fish cake.' But now it's coming with a horseradish emulsion or a beautiful salad on top. So, every single dish on the menu is a classic — like a forgotten dish, but we do everything we can to bring it to the next level. So yeah, I think this is a really exciting part. And it's fun because everyone is really involved. It's not just me. Sometimes we have this conversation with the team: ‘Okay, we have sausage and mash, what can we do?’ This is a delicious dish. Like everyone wants to have it, but it's like, 'okay, how can we elevate it, what we can do with the sausages, what we can do with mashed potato.'
There are so many restaurants, and the climate is so difficult now. How do you ensure that Holborn Dining Room stands out against its competitors?
I just need to stay true, and I'm tending with what we do. I mean, of course, when we have a pie room, and we create beautiful pies, we have a gin bar on this side, and we have over 300 different kinds of gins. But I think that, standing out, we're definitely transparent in everything that we do. I think this is the key for me, and the seasonal menu; we are really focusing on that. We spend a lot of time talking to our suppliers about what's in season. Since I've been here, we are staying true to ourselves, standing out, and getting great feedback. But of course, there's a lot of activation at the same time. Every month, we create a variety of pies and special dishes. So, there's a lot of work. And this keeps us constantly busy as well.
Do you have any particular ingredients that you love working with in your dishes?
I'm not vegan, but I love vegetables. For me, they don't cost much, but you can do such amazing things with them. And, as I mentioned before, the vegan dishes are something I personally love. So, when we create the menu, I'm always the one who says, ‘Don't worry, I will take care of the vegan dish.’ All the ingredients are in season. I love beautiful salads. I love colours. Even in autumn and winter, it's not so bright and so green anymore, but we have a beautiful, beautiful. Kale or broccoli. Lovely cauliflower. And the butternut, of course, is a gorgeous colour.
Tell us more about the sustainable aspect as well, which I know is very important to you.
As I mentioned, we are working with local producers, and our biggest partner is HD Walter. So, there is a lot of communication between us, talking about what we can do, where is this product coming from? I want to make sure it's not just what’s on paper; we are doing it. And this is really important to me with the menus: offering the specials so we can really focus on products that are here in the UK and that are sustainable.
Do you plan those menus quite far in advance, or is it something you have to do a bit more on the fly depending on what’s available?
With the specials, for example, I can check what we can get, and then it's easier, but with the menus, we need a lot of organisation with suppliers. But Smith and Brooke are the ones who provide us with vegetables. So, for me, it's easy. We have had a few conversations before we start the season, and say, ‘okay, this is what we can get, so there is a lot of preparation before that, and of course, the scale of the operation is quite big, so we need to have plenty of time to make sure everything is done correctly.
Do you have a favourite season?
I'm going to say spring, and it's because of the salads.
How do you think the industry has changed since you began as a chef? And are there any changes you'd like to see?
I'm going to say something that some other chefs might disagree with. But I remember starting 13 years ago, and I remember how tough it was — how much shouting and screaming in the kitchen, and these long hours, and so much pressure. And I'm happy that we are moving away from that. I'm pleased to hear that people are already seeing this balance in a kitchen. They don't want to do 60, 70 hours like we used to do. They want to go and enjoy their lives, which is great, because I believe that if I have people who are coming to work, are interested, and are happy, I mean, I know they can perform much better than we did 13 years ago. I think if you talk about the kitchen perspective, this one change, and then lots of chefs will say, ‘But we’re losing the discipline.’ I mean, I don't see it this way. I have a fantastic team that's performing well, and we don't need to scream and shout or work extra hours to achieve that. I'm happy about this change. I'm happy to see it. Also, social media has changed a lot. I think now, if you're not on Instagram, you basically don't exist. But this is the first thing you do. If you feel like you wanna go somewhere and try something new, like a new restaurant, the first thing you're going to do is search on Instagram. So that's another huge change. And then the third one would be local sourcing; people are really focusing on that, like we are here. And people are being really aware of that. And then they know how important it is, so there are lots of restaurants and now, hotels. I'm now focused on that. So, I think these three answers are the most significant change I see personally.
And do you think there are more females in the kitchen nowadays?
I mean, I always like to see females in the kitchen, and even today, when I was in the lift, one of the chefs smiled and said, ‘I talked to my friend about you, and they were really surprised that you are a woman.’ I said, ‘What do you mean by that? What's wrong with that?’ He said, ‘No, nothing, they're just surprised.’ So, for me, sometimes it's even weird to hear these kinds of comments, but I have a great team of women in the kitchen, and I mean, they're all fantastic. There are more in higher positions, which is great to see. We need more women. There aren't many female MDs, so it's nice to see women in leadership positions at the hotel. I'm all in favour of that.
With Great British Pie Week coming up in March, what are some of the pies and accompanying dishes that customers can expect to sample on the menu?
I'm particularly excited about our Lobster and Scallop Pie; it's luxurious but still has that comforting, nostalgic quality that great British pies should have. We're also offering a beautiful range, including Lamb and Charred Grilled Aubergine Pie, which brings together rich flavours with a lovely smoky element, and our Montgomery Cheddar Cheese and Potato Pie featuring simple, classic ingredients elevated through technique and quality sourcing. The Free-Range Chicken and Wild Mushroom Pie is another guest favourite, and we will be serving a Traditional Shepherd's Pie in Holborn Dining Room, which is perfect for sharing. It's all about honouring these forgotten British classics, plating them beautifully, and ensuring every element, from the pastry to the filling, is executed to the highest standard.
We are all already looking ahead in expectation to warmer weather. Can you tell us yet what kind of dishes and activations you have lined up for spring?
I'm genuinely excited about spring! As someone who loves vegetables, particularly salads, this is when we can really showcase the brightest, most colourful produce. We'll be focusing on the freshest green leaves, ensuring every element on the plate is vibrant and full of life. It's not just about putting leaves on a plate, though; there's real thought and creativity that goes into building texture, acidity, and beautiful presentation. Spring is the perfect time to celebrate British vegetables at their best.
What other projects are you working on in the next few months?
Looking ahead to spring and summer, I'm really excited to transition into lighter, brighter menus that celebrate the season. As I mentioned, I'm passionate about vegetables and salads, so this is when we can really shine, showcasing the freshest green leaves, vibrant seasonal produce, and building dishes with beautiful colour and texture. We'll be looking at forgotten British classics that work well for warmer weather, thinking about how to plate them in ways that feel both nostalgic and contemporary. And of course, continuing to ensure our vegan and vegetarian offerings get the same level of creativity and attention as everything else on the menu. Beyond the menu development, it's about keeping the team motivated and aligned with our vision as we move through the seasons. Every project comes back to celebrating British produce at its best and creating memorable experiences for our guests.
When you have time away from the kitchen, how do you like to recharge and stay inspired?
I'm always really active. Because I'm like that here at work, I do the same at home. There is always time to go and recharge an engine. I'm also a big fan of Malar Robins’ books and podcasts. So, lots of reading. Lots of cooking at home. With a good glass of wine. And then, I love to go out once a month just to be inspired. I have this kind of deal with my fiancé: once a month, we choose a restaurant —something new or interesting we want to try. So, one month I'm choosing, and then another month he's choosing. So, this is how we stay inspired.
Having successfully navigated a new cuisine, a different country and a career that is not for the faint-hearted, Illona Perczyk is a testament to the power of talent and self-belief. During her tenure as head chef at Holborn Dining Room, she has helped redefine heritage classics and modern British cuisine, as well as the shape of contemporary kitchens, through her work ethic, inclusive approach, and careful attention to sustainability. Ilona understands that while we must always appreciate what has gone before, we must never stand still, acknowledging that progress is achieved with a team whose opinions and ideas are just as vital to the restaurant’s success as her own. Ilona’s story will no doubt offer encouragement and inspire those who wish to follow her footsteps, sending a positive message to all aspiring chefs, particularly women, who want to showcase their abilities in this challenging yet rewarding field, one where more women are always welcome, particularly, it seems, at Rosewood London's Holborn Dining Room.
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