
Dior Couture Spring Summer 2025 Collection. Paris, 27th January 2025
At the Musée Rodin, Maria Grazia Chiuri's Spring Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior unfolded like a sartorial fairytale, where the past and present danced together in perfect harmony. Before the show even began, the atmosphere was electric with the presence of house ambassador Anya Taylor-Joy and 2010s supermodel icon Karlie Kloss, creating a perfect bridge between Dior's past and present.
Words by Adam Chan.
Rithika Merchant's immersive art installation transformed the show space itself, "The Flowers We Grew," brought to life through intricate textile work by the Chanakya ateliers. The walls, adorned with elaborate embroidery and threading techniques, set a tone of craftsmanship that would echo throughout the collection. This artistic collaboration wasn't just decorative; it was a statement about the intersection of art, craft, and fashion that Dior has long championed.
Drawing inspiration from the house's rich archives, particularly the 1958 Trapèze line by Yves Saint Laurent, Chiuri created a collection that brought the past into the present with graceful ease. Look 32 emerged as a masterclass in haute couture construction – the short dress in organza, embroidered with gold and straw lace, demonstrated the atelier's expertise in architectural clothing. The organ pleats over a small grosgrain crinoline created a silhouette that perfectly balanced historical reference with modern execution.
The craftsmanship reached new heights in Look 52, where evanescent beige gilded hydrangeas were meticulously embroidered onto greige tulle, creating a dream-like effect that seemed to float down the runway. The textiles were nothing short of extraordinary, particularly evident in Look 63, where floral guipure and antique silver mesh created a mesmerising play of light and texture on a long Cigale dress.
Chiuri's exploration of contrasts was evident throughout: modern crinolines appeared alongside punk-inspired headpieces, while fitted tailcoats met floating, petal-like capes. The textiles told their own story – from moiré fabrics that caught the light like liquid metal to organza feathers that seemed to defy gravity. Each piece felt like a careful study of the art of transformation, where traditional haute couture techniques were pushed into contemporary territory.
This collection served as a reminder of why Dior remains at the forefront of haute couture. It wasn't just about creating beautiful clothes; it was about maintaining a dialogue between past and present, craft and innovation, tradition and transformation. In doing so, Chiuri has once again proven that true luxury lies in the perfect marriage of imagination and execution.
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