“Attraction. Magnetism. Spirit.”
The three words used by CHANEL’s first COMETES COLLECTIVE members Ammy Drammeh, Cecile Paravina, and Valentina Li to define allure. Fittingly, these are among some of the same three words we would use to describe the attributes of these three exceptionally talented and captivating makeup artists.
Words by Sandy Aziz. All images copyright and courtesy of CHANEL Beauty.
It is a rainy Monday in mid-November in London when we arrive at an earthier Hotel 1 Mayfair. The lobby greets us via a fusion of neutral hues, a live moss chandelier, and walls draped with muted but festive ornaments. It’s simply a hidden haven away from nature’s torrential downpour and teeming pavements. As we make our way up to the hotel room, we acknowledge that these are the last neutral hues we’ll see before we dive into a lively discussion about colour. And when we arrive, here they are: CHANEL’s COMETES COLLECTIVE.
Immediately, a golden warmth radiates from each of the three women as they welcome us into their space with their charm and smiles. “I didn’t believe it in the beginning,” says Valentina Li (VL), candidly, about being selected for the collective. “We thought maybe our personal styles and approach to make-up were too risky for CHANEL or too off-brand,” adds Cecile Paravina (CP). “As a make-up artist, you barely work with another make-up artist,” begins Valentina, and Cecile continues, “but the make-up studio was very hungry from the beginning for our perspectives, styles, and what we’ve wanted to do at CHANEL, so we’ve been pleasantly surprised with that.” Ammy Drammeh (AD) endorses both statements cueing the three makeup artists’ clear chemistry.
While many are hyper-fixated on each of the members individually, CHANEL celebrates their individuality together and what they can each bring to the common collective.
CP: CHANEL is a very specific house with very defined codes and a defined ethos, which makes it easier for us to work together because we know we have a common goal of adding a few bricks to this house, basically.
AD: Yes, I think the chemistry [between us] was naturally good from the beginning, which was a bit worrying because you never know [if that will be the case]. As Valentina mentioned, you only ever work as the sole make-up artist on set, so it was scary to see how this would unfold – but it is [really] just so easy.
VL: I think because we are so different and our styles are so different, I actually am learning a lot from Cecile and Ammy. I think that we are sharing a lot of beauty tips and how we see beauty. We keep communicating [and] we put our egos aside in order to aim for a common collective.
No strangers to difference, they all also share a “very solid ground of values,” especially growing up in “remote places.” This, of course, translates to a better understanding of each other, including more trust and better communication. Guided by common goals – including the need for caffeine – we briefly pause for coffee.
Upon returning to the discussion, we agree that all the above translates beautifully to everything we know about CHANEL beauty – which is that it is rooted in enhancement and the celebration of being one’s authentic self.
On the topic of learning, we feel the urge to ask what have the trio learned since joining the collective?
AD: One thing I love about Cecile is that she is so precise in how she does makeup, her ideas, and how she executes them. I think Valentina is a little more like me in that she uses her fingers. Valentina is also more inventive in a way that she is not afraid to do things differently. So, it is quite inspiring to see these two doing their thing.
CP: I would say the same because we do use very different techniques. As an example, even for the most basic things, like skin, we do very different things. That has been a huge positive because I have a wider perspective for working on products. When you work as a collective, it is very informative. It helps me become a better consultant.
VL: The thing I’ve learnt the most from Ammy and Cecile is where they get their inspiration from - how they do their research and how they see things in their own way. My style is very passion-driven, but I don’t plan. The internet wasn’t a thing when I was a child, so I felt too far away from other cultures, but I am extending that by being able to work with them, and it is extending how I see beauty from their perspectives too.
Before entering the collective, each member had a certain view of beauty with its given limits, and they’ve each learnt a lot from the experience as mentioned. Are there any beauty mantras, “beauty don'ts,” that they live by, or that have changed/shifted?
VL: What is a beauty don’t? That sounds like a rule, and I think there are no rules for beauty.
CP: Yeah, breaking the rules is important. Usually, there is a type of tension in my work — a clash or contrast. For example, classical beauty vs. something that is perceived as ugly. I find myself constantly creating this paradox that is unexpected. If I limited myself to rules, it would be difficult to find myself and make it personal. And actually, I like breaking my own rules.
AD: Exactly, if you stay within the rules, you will never do anything exciting or inspiring - you will just do what everyone else is doing. My only rule is to remove your make-up before going to bed.
Collectively laughing, we concur that make-up removal before bed is sound advice. “What if I forgot to remove my make-up before bed,” Valentina adds promptly, “and the next morning I woke up with a smudged smokey eye? That is a new way to embrace that smokey eye, so maybe that is a good thing too.” Here, we’re reminded of the evident chemistry between the three artists, and it is easy to imagine the various compelling conversations they have when they are creating beyond this twenty-minute interaction. In a world that is full of rules and often fuelled by social media’s obsession with culture conformity, it is refreshing once more to catch glimpses of creative individuality even among a collective. And CHANEL’s COMETES COLLECTIVE – which is undeniably leading by example in the industry. If we could summarise with due justice and without oversimplification: don’t have rules, break your own rules, and beauty is what you make it.
Shifting to specific styles, we ask Valentina about the colour blue, which is a huge part of her identity and creative vision. “My first collection already came out, and the theme for it was ocean,” Valentina explains. “My hair is blue because it is a statement to the world – the sky and the ocean is blue and I want to fit in. So, I designed the first collection with the ocean as my biggest inspiration to say thank you.” Interestingly enough, when she first presented the idea of blue, there was a collective curiosity about why because of reasons such as a clash with certain skin tones or difficulty in use. Despite this, Valentina shifted the conversation to her confidence in the colour – “There are many types of blue and many ways to use blues, so this is a gesture to encourage people to embrace using the colour to match themselves.” The link to the ocean beautifully draws out its vastness and links to people’s fear of open water - perhaps mirroring their fear of using a new colour, and perhaps it’s time to “just jump in.” “But I need to tell you,” concludes Valentina, smiling, “my favourite colour in make-up is actually red.” Understandable, and we nod, noting that this colour is CHANEL’s signature hue after all.
When it comes to Cecile, her attention to detail is impeccable. “I’m always trying to represent the precise girls to make sure there is something out there for them,” giggles Cecile. “But I also think my attraction to this sophistication in precision is because I have hyper pale skin, and it is easy to do too much, then get scared and not try new things.” It makes sense then that she wants to create tools to allow for experimentation. And so, we conclude that it is not precision for perfection, but precision in this context is for enhancement and experimentation.
We travel to a highly debated discussion around beauty standards, and Ammy begins by unpacking this. “In the past ten years, things have changed a lot, and one of the biggest reasons is social media. Our vision of beauty was closed off, and suddenly you have a platform, and it isn’t just about what is happening in a tiny little part of the world, but suddenly your lenses are capturing what is happening globally in a very positive way. [Now] what a girl in Shanghai does, someone else in Jamaica can try to do the same thing - this is a beautiful way to open up the expectations of beauty.” Expression, unity and accessibility at the height of social media – putting a positive spin on social media’s role in the beauty industry is no easy feat. However, Ammy did just that, optimistically reiterating, “Beauty standards have changed majorly, and hopefully they keep changing. It’s exciting.”
Finally, we must ask the trio what their favourite CHANEL products are.
All: Baume Essentiel Multi-Use Glow Stick It is so versatile; you can use it for everything!
CP: Le Rouge Duo Ultra Tenue Ultra Wear Liquid Lip Colour It’s a dual-ended lipstick. Go to the shop and try it. It will stay all day long!
Who knew that a dual-ended lipstick could trigger such a discussion on the differences in usage – but then again what a way to end our conversation while continuing to show off the Collective’s own allure.
Throughout the week, we find ourselves reflecting on the three meticulously chosen words the Collective used to define allure: “Attraction. Magnetism. Spirit.” Revisiting them often until we found ourselves at CHANEL’s “The Colour of Allure” – an intimate exhibition to celebrate that colour comes from creation and to immerse us in the brand’s world of indescribable allure. Though we have the collective’s characteristics of allure in mind, we know that “allure cannot be fully captured by words.” And the press release for the exhibition reconfirms just that. “[Allure] is a state of mind and being; an indefinable magnetism that comes when you embrace your authentic self, with all its originality and particularities.”
Through three carefully curated rooms, we embark on a “sensorial journey” to explore the enchanting nexus between colours and allure. First, the dynamic legacy room celebrating the history of CHANEL’s rich heritage, followed by a brief glimpse into the future with a mention of an upcoming launch to mark the brand’s 100th year anniversary in 2025. Luring us into the next part of the journey, we view a documentary of the COMETES COLLECTIVE, giving us a closer look at their inspirations, processes, and how elegance and colour are infused throughout every aspect of their work. Finally, we arrive in a room “full of sensations” where beauty and make-up are brought to life.
Time and again, we’re reminded that CHANEL beauty is consistently ahead of the curve — not just in terms of its approach to enhancement and allure, but also in its state-of-the-art collaborations and experiences.
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