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  • Writer's picture5' ELEVEN''


London. January 2019

Bianca Saunders Fall Winter 2019 collection explores themes surrounding the black male identity in the expanse of their most intimate setting, within their bedroom. This latest offering, ‘Unravelling’ is conceptualised through the reflection of male figures in their most wholesome state and where they feel most open to self-expression.

Focusing intensely on twisted seams, shirring, elasticated techniques to create a bounce back effect and mesh detailing, there are subtle elements of sexiness present within the collection. Drawing on the black male experience from close allies, research and challenging the norms surrounding hyper masculinity, Saunders delves into a world where the lines between femininity and vulnerability are blurred.

The set design mimics that of a bedroom, using everyday commodities to resemble home comforts. The fabric choices align with the modern wardrobe, from nylon and leather to cotton shirting, jersey and denim. An extension of the previous collection, the fits exude comfort. Through garment manipulation, Saunders has intertwined elements of creasing, amalgamated with structural outlines to replicate the ease one feels in a familiar space. Wider shirt sleeves are present with narrowed silhouettes on the body to modernise.

‘Unravelling’ Collection is a detailed examination of feeling comfortable in your own space and subsequently challenges how this is achieved through clothing, as well as evaluating the individual identities of those wearing the garments.

Photos by Eve Power


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