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  • Writer's picture5' ELEVEN''


London, The Dutch Hall. February 15th.

In the chaos of present day, Ryan LO is finding comfort and joy in unadulterated beauty. In black, seeks solace. In white, he finds his calm. The pinks become muted.

The ending of Ryan LO's tale this season is a happy one. Overwhelmingly so. She stands serene by a moonlit lake, drinking in the night. She’s Lady Oscar from the Japanese manga Rose of Versailles, riding horses and hanging out with stable boys. Blue blood in love with a blue collar. French 18th century rococo aristo attire seen through Lo’s prism.

Ryan LO explored the roots of kawaii by looking at the Japanese illustrator Rune Naito, whose 1960s illustrations of doe-eyed girls with their bouffant hair and retro frocks. By day, she’s cosy in double-faced quilted nylon coats and jackets with matching skirts. By afternoon tea, she’s in drop-waist lace dresses.  By night, only a cocktail dress with a voluminous tiered skirt will do. He summons the cannon of prettiness and festoons everything with aplomb; corsages, pussy bows, feathers and frills.  Matchy-matchy. Tone-on-tone. Not a Ginger Rogers step out of place.

Knitwear, a staple and signature of Lo this season comes in fine mohair, finished with a satin ribbon laced up like ballet shoes. Lurex sweat pants and hoodies are for those that love a Simple Life. Finally Lo’s speciality of blossoming floral crochet are worked into Peter Pan collars, bibs and capes.


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