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  • Writer's picture5' ELEVEN''


Updated: Mar 2, 2020

Prada Fall Winter 2020 Collection. Milan, 20th February 2020.

Tools of glamour, uniforms of beauty. For Fall Winter 2020, a consideration of the strength of women, an emphasis on an inherent authority found in that which is intrinsically feminine. Rather than a negation of identity, a celebration. The agency of women.

Progenitorial raiments of glamour and beauty serve as an aesthetic shorthand for typical definitions of femininity - synonymous with a softness, a fragility, a sensuality. Here those qualities are championed to be challenged, their reflection in visual rhetoric surrendering examples combined deliberately to contradict, undermine and propose new meaning. Paradoxically, delicacy can define strength. Tactility and animation emphasize kinesthetic awareness: vents, layered fringes and deconstructed pleats reveal skin, and underscore locomotion. Movement is tied to the corporeal, to athleticism, hence to sportswear - the clothing of everyday, today. Here, that everyday is corrupted by glamour, forms and functions challenged, shifted from practical to aesthetic.

Power can be found in pleasure: combinations of elements from this lexicon of glamour express command, even force. Strict tailleurs are countered in their juxtaposition with lingerie components; minaudières, mirrored compacts, purses and bijoux - mechanisms of female self- representation - are cross-bred with utilitarian fabrications in nylon and metal, like functional tools. A symbol of women, flowers are a recurrent motif in varied application. The concept of the “fur coat” is exploded, imitated through shearling or fringe, its silhouette mirrored in padded nylon. Volume creates hourglass echoes of the eternal feminine, cinched at the waist.

Actuality is heightened, a dreamlike state discovered in the quotidian. Colors are extreme, fabrications surreal in their incongruity. Throughout, nevertheless, there is an innate, palpable reality - a sense of the indomitability of humanity, of nature, of the continuation of life. Clothing mirrors the pluralism and complexity of female identities - of women embodying multiple ideas of the ‘self’, simultaneously. They defy any simplistic categorization - they reflect the ever- fluctuating rapport of women with their own identities.


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