David Koma Fall Winter 2020 Collection. The Leadenhall Building, London. 15th February 2020
Words by Charlie Newman
At first glance, the Fall Winter 2020 David Koma show invitation could be confused for a formal business award invitation. The sunset lit cityscape screamed The Apprentice over Project Runway, but as the guests squeezed into the glass lift at The Leadenhall Building, we were hurtled into the dizzying heights (quite literally on the 42nd floor!) of the future.
Each model stomped out in sharp silhouettes with an erotic twist-think Cruella De Vil in bondage. The boardroom basics wardrobe was spiced up with Koma’s risqué elements, each high octane look was paired with either: lycra cycling shorts, knee high socks, PVC gloves, harnessed leather corsetry or an open gusseted leotard. Traditional tailoring was rejuvenated with geometric, mirrored gems, embellishing neck and waistlines, mirroring the dazzling reflective windows of the city’s skyscrapers. Less mannish than the 80’s power suits, Koma kept things streamlined and feminine, you don’t need to dress like a man to be respected like one.
This collection appears to be an homage to the eccentricity of London. Little details portrayed Koma’s infatuation with the city that changed his life and established his career as a designer. The word London crept up the back of the socks, nodding to the 90’s, bling chains spelt out the city, even white stiletto’s were emblazoned with the the Union Jack at the heel. The entire collection felt patriotic without a whiff of nostalgia, a magical balance only Koma could master.
Perhaps Koma is dressing the modern day woman in the wake of the Me Too era, ready to face the complexities of Brexit and the boardroom boldly and beautifully. Whilst The Pulp’s ‘Common People’ blasted out over the speaker for the finale, each model strode out unafraid in Koma’s armour. Strength never looked so sexy.
BACKSTAGE by Austn Fischer