Chloé Fall Winter 2020 Collection. Paris, 27th February 2020
Through painting, sculpture and poetry, the Chloé fashion show invokes a potent synergy of performative spirits. At the intersection of multiple feminine worlds, Chloé creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi explores a diverse landscape of women whose secret complexities reject the boundaries of classical definition. In a space delineated by the sculptor Marion Verboom’s voluptuous gilded totems, the voice of Marianne Faithfull reads from a mythical canon of classic poetry. Within this audiovisual construct, the ready-to-wear collection is unveiled – accompanied by the figurative line of painter Rita Ackermann, Ramsay Levi’s longtime friend. Brimming with a layered discourse on contemporary femininity, her illustrated, nymph-like women are replicated – unchanged from the canvas – to garments and accessories.
Pregnant with memory and symbolism, the Fall Winter 2020 collection weaves together a multitude of female stories, worn on the faces of a worldly cast of independent characters. Tones of heather and dun, ochre, chestnut, dusty blues and burnt sienna mark their path. By first assuming the codes of a masculine wardrobe, they are then dissolved – transformed by the hallmarks of an ethereal womanhood. Within this frame, deft touches of handwork create a bucolic romance. From pearlescent 3D paisley and beaded collars to cross-stitch and broderie anglaise, fragility enters the sartorial vocabulary of the shirt dress, hunting jacket, wide denim and a slouchy flared suit. Tooled belts encircle Aran and argyle knit dresses, flannel cashmere blazers and cabans over a club collar blouse. Flou graduates from patched paisleys and polka dots to a passage of sylph-like evening dresses encrusted with Art Nouveau petals.
The Chloé accessories collection for this Fall Winter 2020 is marked by the patina of time. Strings of agate beads cluster at the neck, as delicate hammered leaves and branches suspend from drop earrings or curl around enamel bangles and resin cuffs. The mini Daria bag is crafted in stamped croc and corduroy suede, whilst the slouchy Darryl hobo appears in pebbled calfskin and rich suede. Making its runway debut, the double buckled Franne micro crossbody is juxtaposed with roomy Fredy totes stamped with a geometric monogram. On foot, stacked lace-up boots and monk strap shoes are tasseled and brogued, as Chelsea boots are paneled in stamped exotic leathers.