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  • Writer's pictureAdam Chan


Updated: Feb 17

Bora Aksu Fall Winter 2024 Collection. London Fashion Week, 16 February 2024.

Bora Aksu Fall Winter 2024 Collection. London, 16 February 2024.

Bora Aksu's Autumn/Winter 2024 collection evokes an introspective world, veiled in demi-couture pieces that honour the artistry of Eva Hesse. In London, guests witnessed Aksu's signature ethereal aesthetic meet postminimalism, inspired by Hesse's enigmatic sculptures.

Creative director Bora Aksu immerses us in the universe of Hesse, whose traumatic childhood followed by a tumultuous adulthood struck a chord. As one of the last children to flee Nazi Germany in 1938, Hesse processed her experiences through joyful, whimsical art. Aksu mirrors this ability to transform negative emotions into sublime creations. FW24 sees Aksu continue to play with volume, pairing flowing skirts with tailored masculine coats. He creates paradoxical garments, blending feminine and masculine through mixed fabrics. While the palette is more muted than usual, shades of taupe and cream allow intricate details to shine.

Knitted angora dresses evoke Hesse's iconic latex sculptures. Tailored waists and voluminous sleeves create a weightless illusion, as if clothes are suspended mid-air. Familiar blush pink tones retain Aksu’s feminine energy, grounded by inky blues reflecting the collection's solemn inspiration. As Aksu reflects, "Finding the brightest joy in the darkest moments" guides this collection. Light, angular shirts add edge to the playful silhouettes, processing trauma through materiality. Hesse's 1960s golden age shines through in strong shapes and soft fabrics blending vibrant romanticism.

Sharp coats contrast ethereal gowns, rooting the collection in Aksu's feminine aesthetic. Behind the scenes, upcycled fabrics limit environmental impact, enhancing the demi-couture rarity. FW24 celebrates women transcending pain through creativity. Aksu revels in revealing how feminine power can transform hardship into beauty. It's a tribute to his team and Hesse, showing fashion's power to convey emotional narratives.


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